Paddle Posts

May 31 – Day five

What a fantastic day! We headed out at nine AM for a short motoring to the next fjord. Beautiful scenery no mater which way you look.

Out of the fjord headed to the next one. Nice weather and calm seas.
There’s a tine little village in the valley above this waterfall. Only. Accessible via a tunnel in the mountain on the right.
We will be paddling around this island later today.

We were told we could tie up at the little pier in the village of Bour on the island of Vagar.

The village of Bour and the tiny pier.

It looked pretty dicey so we went in very slow and the keel touched bottom about 30 feet from the pier. We backed off and anchored off of the village and launched the kayaks right after lunch.

We launch the dingy and then use it as a method for getting in and out of the kayaks. Works pretty good.

We paddled in some caves and arches and around the most beautiful island. On the outside of the island we came across hundreds of puffins. They are the neatest little birds and I’ve never seen so many in one place. Writing about todays paddle does not do it justice. Here are pictures to tell the story.

May 31 – Day five

What a fantastic day! We headed out at nine AM for a short motoring to the next fjord. Beautiful scenery no mater which way you look.

Out of the fjord headed to the next one. Nice weather and calm seas.
There’s a tine little village in the valley above this waterfall. Only. Accessible via a tunnel in the mountain on the right.
We will be paddling around this island later today.

We were told we could tie up at the little pier in the village of Bour on the island of Vagar.

The village of Bour and the tiny pier.

It looked pretty dicey so we went in very slow and the keel touched bottom about 30 feet from the pier. We backed off and anchored off of the village and launched the kayaks right after lunch.

We launch the dingy and then use it as a method for getting in and out of the kayaks. Works pretty good.

We paddled in some caves and arches and around the most beautiful island. On the outside of the island we came across hundreds of puffins. They are the neatest little birds and I’ve never seen so many in one place. Writing about todays paddle does not do it justice. Here are pictures to tell the story.

These cliffs were 400 to 500 feet.

May 30 – Day four

Still in the bunk at the start of the day and our boat is still rock and rolling. We finally made calm waters in the Faroe Islands and I slowly got myself going. It was around two o’clock so I’d spent about 34 hours in the bunk. I’m pretty beat as I was not really sleeping but rolling around.

We docked at the commercial docks in Vestmanna on the island of Streymoy.

That’s our boat behind the large fishing trawler

As soon as we got the boat all tied up we all went for a walk around town. I was still pretty beat but the walk did great things for me. On top of that, we found the local grocery store. My shopping list included an ice cream bar and fresh strawberries. That’s what I really needed. I’m feeling much better now.

We started discussions on the plan for tomorrow. Looks like we’ll relocate the boat to the next fjord over and launch the kayaks for a great paddle.

Here are a few pics from our journey coming into the Faroe Islands.

Looking aft. We came through that opening from the North Atlantic into the Faroe Islands
Yep, a small stone “house” just for the sheep.
Almost into town
The sunny side of the fjord
One of the Feather Craft kayaks comes ashore for some leak patching.
Walking around town there are a lot of neat houses with grass roofs.

May 28/29 Day two/three

We finished putting the Feather Craft together including a couple home made parts. After that we all packed a lunch and headed out in the kayaks towards the end of the fjord. We found lots of whales broaching and we were able to get pretty close to them. Really neat. We also found a World War Two landing craft on the beach. The rusting hulk has quite a history. Here are some pics for the day.

Really nice weather in this fjord
WW II US landing craft or what’s left of it.
The end of the fjord. There is one road into the fjord and it winds right up that mountain. Pretty amazing.
The little harbor by our pier
Siggi in the Pilot House
Anuka stowing lines. And all kayaks on deck and tied down.

After getting back to the boat we loaded all the kayaks onboard had dinner and then headed out to sea. We were underway at eleven and this far north it’s still light out.

Almost midnight and we are headed into the North Atlantic. Next stop, Faroe Islands

I took the first mid-watch with Siggi until four AM and then hit the sack.

Day three was spent at sea sailing towards the Faroe Islands. It got very rough out and our boat was bouncing all over the place. I spent the entire day in my bunk fighting sea sickness. Yuck 🤢.

May 27 – Day one

We all slept in a little and then went for breakfast. After that, Matt and I grabbed our gear for the mile walk down to the dock where our boat, the BYR was waiting for us. She is a 60’ steel hulled traditional ketch.

This is a stock photo of the BYR in Greenland
We found the BYR at the farthest dock available.

Load and stow gear was the plan for the morning. Siggi, our captain was onboard with his first mate and wife Anuka. They also have two young children that will be sailing with us. They are fantastic folks and will be great to sail with.

Matt, Siggi, and Anuka below deck giving us the safety brief and intro to our “home” for the next two weeks.

The plan is to have a safety brief and then head south for about four hours to the next fjord with an evening paddle to follow.

We had a bit of a problem getting out of the harbor. The engine water temperature alarm kept going off, but the temp gauge showed normal temperatures. We did not want to head out into the North Atlantic with a problem so we turned around and started heading in slowly changing speed to see if the water temp responded accordingly. It did so we thought it was an electrical connection issue. Siggi and I went down into the engine room and I reconnected some of the water temp connectors, making sure they were clean and tight. Back topside and in the pilot house, all looked good so another U-turn and we headed out.

Rob, Matt and Anuka topside
Heading out of the harbor
Our destination fjord in sight
There was only one pier where we could tie up and the scenery is fantastic. This is looking towards the head of the fjord.
We had one single kayak that was assigned to me :), one poly double and three Feather Craft doubles that we had to put together. That ended up being a problem as one of them was missing parts. With some imagination and ingenuity, we were able to get them together and usable. By this time though, it was too late for a paddle so we called it a day. We will paddle in the morning.
Looking across the fjord from our berth

May 25/26 – Travel days

Ok, here we go again. I spent both days working my way up to the east coast of Iceland. I was pretty beat by the time I got into the little town of Seydisfjordur.

The flight was first going to Boston with a four hour layover. Then switching airlines and flying to Reykjavik. After landing there, I had to take a bus to the domestic airport and then hang out for another four hours before I caught the flight to a little town near the final destination. Matt our kayak guide showed up as well as Matt and Alice, two of the other paddlers on this adventure.

We all got on the smaller plane for the 55 minute flight which went well. Then we had to find transport into the town where our boat is waiting for us. They have a bus service that takes you to Seydisfjordur and it runs twice a day based on the two flights per day that arrive from Reykjavik. What no one told us is that the bus would not be running that afternoon due to some sort of holiday. Go figure. So we looked into renting a car but the rental guy was not keen on driving all the way in to pick up the car so, he offered to drive us there instead. Of course there was a big fee involved and it had to be cash. So, that’s what we did. Not much other choice.

On the drive, we had to go over a small mountain pass and the down to town. An interesting point was the road we were on. If you have ever seen the movie, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, you might remember the high speed skateboard seen where Walter is flying down this long, swooping road at high speed. That’s the road we were on and I could almost visualize doing it on a skateboard. But, you’d have to be really really good and a bit crazy.

Snagged the picture off the TV

We did stop along the way to to check out a nice waterfall. Then it was into town and the hostel I stayed at for the night. It was a very long couple of days.

Nice waterfall we walked back to along the drive.
The little town where we met up with our sail boat. Nice place, very small / remote.

Baja Surf Camp, April 2022

The plan of attack – All paddlers met up in San Diego. After introductions and our own “at home”covid tests, we headed out to dinner and then got some rest for the long drive starting early in the morning.

Up before sunrise, we loaded all our gear into the van and then walked around the corner for a quick breakfast. After that it was a long twelve hour day to get to camp. We crossed the boarder in Tijuana with no issues.

Into Mexico

Nice to not have any COVID test requirements at all. After immigration we headed south through Ensenada and then a boring part of the drive. About halfway we followed the road inland for some amazing scenery.

Big boulders and big cacti
This area was filled with these piles of big boulders and big cacti. We had to stop and check it out.

We made it to camp in good order. The last three miles were pretty close to a four wheel drive path but passable in the van. We set up camp in the palapas and had dinner followed by introductions and general plan for the next few days. With the long drive behind us and full bellies everyone called it a night pretty early. My tent was set up outside between two palapas and it proved very cozy. Since the plan for the next five days was to paddle and play in the surf I won’t have daily posts. What follows are some good pics of our location with captions so you get an idea.

Bonnie was one of our coaches and our driver. As we left the paved roads we had to decide which dirt path to follow. The camp is very very remote.
This is the beach right in front of surf camp
This is our camp. Everyone was able to set up tents inside a palapa (three sided building) except me. I tucked mine in between two palapas and it worked fine.
Kayaks ready to go. It was great to have good surf right in front of us every day. The waves averaged three to four feet as they wrapped around the point. You never had to wait for a good wave to show up.
Ginni, who owns Sea Kayak Baja Mexico. She is a fantastic person, great paddler and always has the best smile!
Good shot of Bonnie
Surf Camp paddlers loving life
Ginni had a NDK Romany Surf kayak waiting for me. Here I am outside the surf zone
I had to do a little side surfing in the small foam piles :)
George about to be “closed out”
Some of the “boomers” just around the point from Surf Camp. These waves were huge. As the wrapped around the point into our beach, they lost a lot of power and became great for our surfing.
Sunrise on our beach the morning we packed up and started the long drive back to San Diego.
Yep, the road we came in on as we got close to camp. Now headed the other way. The Baja as most consider it.

So that’s it for this Surf Camp post. I would highly recommend it for anyone wanting to build more skills surfing kayaks.

March 18 – Day Thirteen

Darrel, JF and I got up early to cast off and get underway. No issues getting out of the harbor and back into the Beagle Channel. We are now working our way back to Ushuaia.

It was a long slog back to Ushuaia. We had lots of waves and head wind to deal with. It did get quite rough as we got close to the harbor.

Ushuaia way off in the distance snuggled between the mountains and the Beagle Channel.
The Spirit of Sydney back in Ushuaia

All’s well in Ushuaia. We tied up next the the big aluminum sailboat and some of their crew were on deck to give us a hand which made it very quick and easy. Next up was to remove all the kayaks from the boat, wash them down and stow them on the racks at the yacht club. All done with that we gathered up all our personal gear and got that stuff off the boat. Then it was sitting around waiting for all the immigration stuff to be completed. We did get a special exemption for COVID tests to enter Argentina so that was good.

We all went our separate ways back to hotels or AirBnB accommodations. Later on we met up for dinner with the entire team at a local Argentine barbecue. Some really good stuff.

They know how to do it down here.
And the beers are big down here :)

So that’s it. A really fantastic paddle adventure that I’ll never forget. Great location, great paddle team, exceptional sailboat and now good paddling friends. Tomorrow I’ll hang out, get another COVID test for getting back home, pack my gear and start thinking about the next adventure.

With that said, I’m finally finishing these Chilean Fjord posts as I’m sitting in a hotel in San Diego. Tomorrow, a bunch of us will jump in a van and travel ten to twelve hours through the Baja to a spot on the pacific side for some great surf paddling with Sea Kayak Baja Mexico. I’ll be out of cell coverage so will have to pick up the posts for this one after I get back. You will be able to follow along in the paddle tracks as they will be live and just about real time.

Happy Paddling, Scott

March 17 – Day 12

The plan for today is to make our way back to Port Williams to check out of Chili. Not sure why we do that other than the Chilean rules are a bit weird. To get in we had to have a PCR test before arrival and an antigen test once we arrived.

It will be a pretty long run to the port but if we make good time we may be able to launch the kayaks and paddle the last few miles. Some pictures along the way towards Puerto Williams.

We are making pretty good time so it looks like we’ll have a couple hours to paddle the last few miles to Port Williams. The weather has gotten really nice for a paddle. Lots of blue sky for the first time in many days. This morning it was cold, rain and sleet and socked right in so it was good for transiting via sale boat.

We got to within eight to nine miles of Port Williams and most of us launched kayaks. We had a really interesting paddle. It started out calm with lots of sun then turned into sleet and a moderate wind. About half way the wind dropped and rain stopped so it was nice again for a while. Then it came barreling in. We had seen it to the west of us and also got a heads up on the radio form the boat. A big squall landed on top of us and it was quite gnarly.

We made it around the point, into the harbor and found our boat tied up next to a beautiful $10 million yacht. Quite nice. We raced to gat all kayaks onboard and the did the march around town to all the immigration offices and the harbor master office to get our clearance stuff done.

After a great Argentine dinner by Anita and some brownies by Justine it was time to hit the sack. I took a look outside and found a lot of big wet snowflakes coming down. Really pretty in the harbor with a heavy snowfall.

Our last paddle day was quite adventurous and a great time.